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Before reading about the cut of a diamond, you should be familiar with a few
general terms.
Facet: A smooth, flat
face on the surface of a diamond.
Table: The flat facet on
the top of a diamond.
Girdle: The narrow band
around the widest part of a diamond.
Crown: The top portion
of a diamond extending from the girdle to the table.
Culet: The tiny, flat
facet at the bottom of a diamond.
Pavilion: The bottom
portion of a diamond extending from the girdle to the culet.
Diameter: The width of a
diamond measured through the girdle.
Depth: The height of a
diamond from the culet to the table.
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When gemologists talk about diamond cut, they are referring not
to its shape, but to its proportions - its depth, width, and the uniformity of
its facets. These characteristics control how light travels within a diamond
and gives it its brilliance.
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The proportions of depth and width have the greatest impact on
diamond brilliance, the reflection of white light that we see when we look at a
diamond.
As shown in the image below, if cut is
too shallow, light traveling through the
diamond is lost out the bottom. This loss of light makes shallow cut diamonds
appear dull and lifeless.
Conversely, if cut is
too deep, the light traveling through the
diamond escapes out the sides, causing the diamond to appear dark.
In an
ideal cut
diamond light bounces back out the top of the stone bringing its brilliance
into view.
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Diamond Polish and Symmetry
Polish refers to the smoothness of a diamond's facets. With
poor polish, the surface of a facet will create a dulled sparkle. A smooth
polish allows light to easily pass through the surface of a facet.
Symmetry refers to the alignment of a diamond's facets. With
poor symmetry, light doesn't reflect as it should because the diamond's facets
are misaligned.
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The cut grade reflects the combined impact of a diamond's
proportions, symmetry, and polish - all three of which impact the diamond's
beauty and value.
Gemological Institute of America (GIA) reports do not grade
diamonds cuts, however, the American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL) reports
do.
The AGSL use a cut grading system that assigns diamonds a cut
grade from a range of 0 to 10.
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The AGSL Ideal "0" Cut rating is given to diamonds that have
the very best cutting. In these diamonds the cut has correct proportions,
precise symmetry and fine polish. All three combine to create the best possible
display of brilliance, scintillation, and dispersion.
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As diamonds fall into grades further from 0, their relative
beauty begins to diminish. For example, a diamond with a cut grade 1 is very
close to 0 in appearance. A cut grade of 2 is still considered to have very
fine proportions and deliver exceptional brilliance.
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GIA, AGSL as well as EGL-USA labs provide the following
symmetry and polish grades. The table describes the terminology used by each
lab:
| GIA-GTL |
AGSL |
EGL USA |
| Excellent |
Ideal |
Excellent |
| Very Good |
Very Good |
Very Good |
| Good |
Good |
Good |
| Fair |
Fair |
Fair |
| Poor |
Poor |
Poor |
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